How to measure age and sewn-in seam allowance for alterations

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For altering used kimono that is too short,

I measure the age.

1. Age looks like a simple fold from the outside,

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but on the inside it is folded so you can open it anytime.

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Seen up close, this is age.

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On women’s kimono, it is often at the front and back waist.

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On men’s kimono, it is often at the front waist and shoulders.

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2. I measure the waist age.

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For awase (lined), I measure the waist age from the outside.

I place a ruler from the age toward the hem.

Touching from the outside, I can measure it by the step.

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This time I found it is 7 cm.

For hitoe (unlined), I measure from the wrong side.

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From the wrong side I can see the seam and the fold.

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I place a ruler and measure from the seam to the fold.

This was also about 7 cm.

If the age is 7 cm, I can lengthen the mitake by 14 cm in total.

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I calculate how much I can actually lengthen.

Measuring the mitake, it is 140 cm.

140 + 14 (age) = 154, so

for a women’s kimono it fits up to 154 cm height.

For men’s, mitake + 26 = suitable height, so

it fits up to 180 cm height.

3. How to measure shoulder age

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In men’s lining, there is often age at the shoulders.

You can see it when you spread out the lining.

When I turn back the collar and look inside the shoulder point, I see
the seam.

Inside the shoulder, seam allowances are folded toward front and back.

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I place a ruler on the shoulder seam of the lining,

and I can feel the thickness and step in front and behind.

The front age is 5 cm.

I measure the back too.

The back was also 5 cm.

With 5 cm age on each side, I can lengthen the mitake by up to 10 cm in
the lining.

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When I open the age it looks like this,

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and if I need more mitake, I can also add patch fabric.

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4. I measure the sewn-in seam allowance of the douura and hakata.

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Women’s lining is often split into douura and susomawashi.

Often extra seam allowance is left between them.

The seam allowance is folded upward.

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The douura allowance is long; the susomawashi allowance is short.

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If it is too thin to feel, I check by looking if it shows through.

This time on the migoro I found susomawashi 1 cm and douura 20 cm.

If the allowances are 20 cm and 1 cm, when I release all the sewn-in
allowance,

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I keep 1 cm as seam allowance, so I gain 19 cm.

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Next I measure the okumi.

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The susomawashi allowance is 1 cm,

but the douura sewn-in part is hidden under the collar.

I expect about the same as on the migoro.

That completes measuring age and sewn-in allowance.

In the videos I upload each step separately,

but in the alteration guide, depending on each alteration,

I reorder the steps for you alone.

The alteration process, which differed

depending on what you want to fix and the original kimono,

I document and turn into software.

Because there are many steps to cover in every direction,

some parts are not filled in yet,

but I will keep filling in every frame without giving up.

so please try it a little.

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