Put together Jieri (base collar) and Kakeeri (cover collar), in the condition where the front side and the back side match. At that time, match the center line.
Match Sechushin (背中心, Center line of Migoro) and the center of collar.
Match the front side of collar and the front side of Migoro (Body).
Put marking pins.
Sew together collar and Migoro.
It’ll look like this.
A little edge of Jieri (base collar) will be left over, and this will be seam allowance.
View from the inside.
Fold the collar into half, and put marking pins. At that time, note that width of back side (inside) of the collar will be longer than the front side (outside).
N19: Sew Jieri edge
Fold edge of jieri (base collar) that was left over.
Fold it to half and put marking pins. At that time, fold it so that the back side (inside) is a little wider than the front side (outside).
Sew straight the edge of Jieri by sewing machine.
N20: Sew the opposite side of collar
Sew together the opposite side of collar from kimono’s front side (outside). Sew Migoro (Body) but sew the line really close to collar. Feel by your nail that there is collar fabric under the migoro, to confirm you’re sewing together Migoro and collar. Sew slowly.
http://wkimono.tokyo/global/index.php/2021/01/20/paper-pattern-for-kimono-n18-to-n20/Paper pattern for kimono – N18 to N20
Mitake (height from hem to shoulder) is what can most easily have error, when it comes to tailoring. I designed long seam allowance, 5cm, for hem so that you can adjust Mitake at last when you try it on.
So sew hem at last after you wear the kimono as test. For now, just iron this part.
First, fold the paper over, along with the dashed lines.
And then, form a fold on the fabric by ironing both of the fabric and paper.
N17: Iron collar
Put the paper pattern of collar on fabric, put marking pins, and cut off the fabric.
Fold only the paper pattern, and then iron both of the fabric and the paper together.
“Back side” has 3mm longer width than “Front side”. Please remember this for the time when you sew collar onto Migoro (Body).
Peal off the paper pattern.
Peal off all the paper pattern
Holes were made on the paper because you sew this by sewing machine. Now it’s easy to tear off the paper. Withdraw it along with the seam, and tear it off.
There’ll be a lot of trash.
After pealing off the paper.
http://wkimono.tokyo/global/index.php/2021/01/20/paper-pattern-for-kimono-n16-to-remove-all-paper-patterns/Paper pattern for kimono – N16 to “Remove all paper patterns”