Detailed description about another page “Kimono’s paper pattern“.

Here is the previous step.

 

N21: Sew hem

Try it on before sewing. Fix the fold on the hem by clothes pin or something.

 

Wear it like real coordination. Confirm the size. If the hem line is wrong, modify it to heigher or lower, and iron the hem along with the modified line.

 

After decided the hem line, sew straight the hem together with seam allowance.

View from the front side.

 

View from the back side.

 

View of edge from the back side.

Completion

It’s all done. Iron if you need.

Detailed description about another page “Kimono’s paper pattern“.

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N18: Sew collar on kimono body

Put together Jieri (base collar) and Kakeeri (cover collar), in the condition where the front side and the back side match. At that time, match the center line.

 

Match Sechushin (背中心, Center line of Migoro) and the center of collar.

Match the front side of collar and the front side of Migoro (Body).

Put marking pins.

 

Sew together collar and Migoro.

 

It’ll look like this.

 

A little edge of Jieri (base collar) will be left over, and this will be seam allowance.

 

View from the inside.

 

Fold the collar into half, and put marking pins. At that time, note that width of back side (inside) of the collar will be longer than the front side (outside).

N19: Sew Jieri edge

Fold edge of jieri (base collar) that was left over.

 

Fold it to half and put marking pins. At that time, fold it so that the back side (inside) is a little wider than the front side (outside).

 

Sew straight the edge of Jieri by sewing machine.

N20: Sew the opposite side of collar

Sew together the opposite side of collar from kimono’s front side (outside). Sew Migoro (Body) but sew the line really close to collar. Feel by your nail that there is collar fabric under the migoro, to confirm you’re sewing together Migoro and collar. Sew slowly.

Detailed description about another page “Kimono’s paper pattern“.

Here is the previous step.

 

N16: Iron hem

Mitake (height from hem to shoulder) is what can most easily have error, when it comes to tailoring. I designed long seam allowance, 5cm, for hem so that you can adjust Mitake at last when you try it on.

So sew hem at last after you wear the kimono as test. For now, just iron this part.

First, fold the paper over, along with the dashed lines.

 

And then, form a fold on the fabric by ironing both of the fabric and paper.

N17: Iron collar

Put the paper pattern of collar on fabric, put marking pins, and cut off the fabric.

 

Fold only the paper pattern, and then iron both of the fabric and the paper together.

“Back side” has 3mm longer width than “Front side”. Please remember this for the time when you sew collar onto Migoro (Body).

 

Peal off the paper pattern.

Peal off all the paper pattern

Holes were made on the paper because you sew this by sewing machine. Now it’s easy to tear off the paper. Withdraw it along with the seam, and tear it off.

 

There’ll be a lot of trash.

 

After pealing off the paper.

Detailed description about another page “Kimono’s paper pattern“.

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N12: Sew together under sleeves

Fold the sleeve on the shoulder line into half, and sew together the bottom of the sleeve on the N12 line.

N13: Seam allowance of sleeve root and under cuff

Zig-zag sew seam allowance of sleeve root one by one.

 

Zig-zag sew under cuff one by one.

N14: Seam allowance of cuff and under sleeve root

The fabric of cuff already has a fold by iron, so sew it straight by sewing machine as it is.

 

You made a fold under the sleeve root by iron earlier, so sew it straight by sewing machine.

N15: Seam allowance of sleeve bottom

Zig-zag sew together two fabrics on the bottom part of the sleeve.

Detailed description about another page “Kimono’s paper pattern“.

Here is the previous step.

N9: Sew together left and right sides of body

Sew straight along with N9 line. By that, sew together Front Migoro (Body) and Back Migoro on the left and right sides.

N10: Seam allowance of sleeve root to left & right sides of body

Zig-zag sew sleeve root and Miyatsuguchi.

Sleeve root (Sodetsuke 袖付) is the line between Migoro (Body) and sleeve.

Miyatsuguchi (身八つ口) is a hole under sleeve root only for women. You can put your hands thorough this to inside kimono.

 

Zig-zag sew two fabrics together, as for left and right sides of Migoro (Body).

N11: Miyatsuguchi

Fold Miyatsuguchi once, and there will be two layers. Sew the two together straight.

Detailed description about another page “Kimono’s paper pattern“.

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N7: Iron Cuff, Sleeve Bottom, Sleeve Root

About dashed lines on sleeves.

 

Fold the paper over.

 

Fold the paper and fabric together, and form a fold on the fabric by iron.

 

There’re dashed lines on both sides of the sleeve. Do the same for both sides.

Furthermore, do the same for both of left and right sleeves.

N8: Sew together sleeves and Migoro (Body)

Migoro (Body) is sewn together on shoulders like this.

 

Open one side of Front Migoro.

 

Put a sleeve here. Match the shoulder line Katayama (line sewn between Front Migoro and Back Migoro) and the center of the sleeve.

Sleeve is shaped of straight but Migoro is shared of V. So be careful and put the two fabrics (sleeve and Migoro) so that N8 lines match.

 

Sew straight N8 line.

 

This is what it looks like when the sleeves are opened. Little by little it looks kimono.

Detailed description about another page “Kimono’s paper pattern“.

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N3: Sew together the left shoulder

Put Left Front Migoro (Body) and Right Front Migoro (Body) on Back Migoro (Body).

N3 and N5 are written on the shoulders of Back Migoro. Put each Front Migoro so that it matches the numbers.

 

Sew together the shoulder as follows. Sew straight by sewing machine.

*  N5 is written in this picture but it’s wrong. I modified the actual file.

N4: Seam allowance on the left shoulder

Fold N3 line after sewing there, so that only the fabric is visible.

 

Zig-zag sew two fabrics together.

*  Process it by lock sewing machine if you have one.

N5: Sew together on the right shoulder

Sew N5 line together, and fold only the paper like N3.

N6: Seam allowance on the right shoulder

Process it by zig-zag sewing

 

Back Migoro and Front Migoro are connected like this.

 

You don’t use this for a while, so roll it and keep it. It’s good to keep it in a plastic bag or something so that marking pins don’t drop.

 

Next is to process sleeves.

Detailed description about another page “Kimono’s paper pattern“.

Here is the previous step.

Sew following “steps_onna.pdf” for women or  “steps_otoko.pdf” for men in the zip, but I’m explaining each step with picture.

This page explains “Iron fabric to straighten wrinkles” and later.

Iron fabric to straighten wrinkles

There’re wrinkles on fabric after we buy it at fabric stores as it’s folded.

 

Iron it lightly like this. This is for cutting it in a precise size, and you don’t have to care small wrinkles. We’ll take off small wrinles at the last phase.

Fix paper patterns and fabric by marking pins

Put paper pattern on fabric.

 

Put marking pins at the intervals like about 1 pin by 2 pages.

 

This is enlarged view.

 

It’s better to put a marking pin in the center at the part of tucked seam.

 

Put marking pins at sleeves and collars in the same way.

 

Make the same two paper patterns for sleeves.

N1 Back Body: 3 parts for tucked seam

The names of parts are written on each paper pattern such as “Ushiro Migoro (Back Body)” and “Jieri (Base Collar)” with big characters.

In

1. Ushiro Migoro (Back Body)
2. Hidari Mae Migoro (Left Front Body)
3. Migi Mae Migoro (Right Front Body)

of the paper patterns, there’re 3 parts for Tucked Seam.

FYI tucked seam is not to sew 2 fabrics together, but to fold the center of one fabric and sew it along with the fold. So the front side will look like a joint.

The following picture will explain rather than words.

There’re 3 lines like this, under “N1”.

In the above, dashes lines

mean

fold to front.

Also, solid lines

mean

sew straight by sewing machine.

 

So, first fold the paper along with the dashed line to front.

 

And then, fold both of the fabric and the paper along the dashed line.

Confirm fabric is inside the paper pattern.

Sew straight along with the solid line.

 

I recommend the stitch to be about 2.5 mm. Fine stitch is better to peal off the paper later.

 

It’ll look like this after sewing.

 

Expanded.

Cut off outside dotted lines together with fabric

The outlines of the pattern is

dotted lines like this.

Cut off both of paper and fabric along with these lines.

FYI it’s alright if you do this right after sewing N1.

It’ll look like this after cutting it off.

 

Flipped to the front side.

 

Roll it and keep it for now.

 

Do the same

• tucked seam
• cut off both of paper and fabric

for Left Front Migoro (Body) and Right Front Migoro (Body).

N2 Seam allowance of Okumi

Next, it’s N2 of Left Front Migoro (Body) and Right Front Migoro (Body).

 

Fold the two dashed lines over.

 

Fold it like this.

 

And then, fold both of fabric and paper along the fold, and iron both.

 

After a fold is formed on the fabric, take off the marking pins beside it.

Peal off the paper, and sew straight only the fabric. Long stitch like 5mm is better so that you can undo the seam to repair/modify later.

Similar collor yarn is better so that the seam won’t be visible.

 

Completion

 

Enlarged

 

Front side

 

Do the same for Left Front Migoro (Body) and Right Front Migoro (Body) both.

To be continued to N3.

Detailed description about another page “Kimono’s paper pattern“.

Before printing

Download and unzip a zip file from the above page.

And then there’re 5 PDF files in the “pdf” folder

like this.

Each PDF is named as something like ushiromigoro.

The meaning is as follows.

• eri : collar
• maemigoro hidari: front body left
• maemigoro migi: front body right
• sode: sleeve
• ushiromigoro: back body

Open the PDF file by such as Adobe Reader

Print it out at A4 size

Stick them with cellophane tape.

I’m explaining how to stick below.

After printing

The following picture says “L2”. My program numbers each edge so that you look for the paired number and stick the edges.

 

Cut off or fold the edge to stick the papers.

 

And then stick the both sides of the edge with cellophane tape.

 

Just a little cellophane tape is enough. Otherwise the tape will be a waste.

 

It’ll look like this after attaching them vertically.

 

Again, stick the same numbers.

 

Cut off or fold the edge to stick.

 

Stick corners with cellophane tape. As for the 1st end and the last end, you’ll cut them off from now, so put cellophane tape on the seam allowance.

 

Stick the corner with cellophane tape like this.

 

ushiromigoro.pdf (Back body) will look like this after sticking all the papers.

 

You could cut of both of the paper and fabric together later, but it’s better to cut off the margin on the paper in advance so you can use fabric at the exact position without waste.