Paper pattern for kimono – N21 to completion

Detailed description about another page “Kimono’s paper pattern“.

Here is the previous step.

 

N21: Sew hem

Try it on before sewing. Fix the fold on the hem by clothes pin or something.

IMG_7468

 

Wear it like real coordination. Confirm the size. If the hem line is wrong, modify it to heigher or lower, and iron the hem along with the modified line.

14

15

 

After decided the hem line, sew straight the hem together with seam allowance.

View from the front side.

IMG_7536

 

View from the back side.

IMG_7537

 

View of edge from the back side.

IMG_7538

Completion

It’s all done. Iron if you need.

1

Paper pattern for kimono – N18 to N20

Detailed description about another page “Kimono’s paper pattern“.

Here is the previous step.

 

N18: Sew collar on kimono body

Put together Jieri (base collar) and Kakeeri (cover collar), in the condition where the front side and the back side match. At that time, match the center line.

12

 

Match Sechushin (背中心, Center line of Migoro) and the center of collar.

Match the front side of collar and the front side of Migoro (Body).

Put marking pins.

13

 

Sew together collar and Migoro.

IMG_7441

 

It’ll look like this.

IMG_7442

IMG_7443

 

A little edge of Jieri (base collar) will be left over, and this will be seam allowance.

IMG_7444

 

View from the inside.

IMG_7446

 

Fold the collar into half, and put marking pins. At that time, note that width of back side (inside) of the collar will be longer than the front side (outside).

IMG_7447

N19: Sew Jieri edge

Fold edge of jieri (base collar) that was left over.

IMG_7450

 

Fold it to half and put marking pins. At that time, fold it so that the back side (inside) is a little wider than the front side (outside).

IMG_7452

 

Sew straight the edge of Jieri by sewing machine.

IMG_7458

N20: Sew the opposite side of collar

Sew together the opposite side of collar from kimono’s front side (outside). Sew Migoro (Body) but sew the line really close to collar. Feel by your nail that there is collar fabric under the migoro, to confirm you’re sewing together Migoro and collar. Sew slowly.

IMG_7460

Paper pattern for kimono – N16 to “Remove all paper patterns”

Detailed description about another page “Kimono’s paper pattern“.

Here is the previous step.

 

N16: Iron hem

Mitake (height from hem to shoulder) is what can most easily have error, when it comes to tailoring. I designed long seam allowance, 5cm, for hem so that you can adjust Mitake at last when you try it on.

So sew hem at last after you wear the kimono as test. For now, just iron this part.

First, fold the paper over, along with the dashed lines.

IMG_7401

 

And then, form a fold on the fabric by ironing both of the fabric and paper.

7

IMG_7403

N17: Iron collar

Put the paper pattern of collar on fabric, put marking pins, and cut off the fabric.

8

 

Fold only the paper pattern, and then iron both of the fabric and the paper together.

9

“Back side” has 3mm longer width than “Front side”. Please remember this for the time when you sew collar onto Migoro (Body).

 

Peal off the paper pattern.

10

Peal off all the paper pattern

Holes were made on the paper because you sew this by sewing machine. Now it’s easy to tear off the paper. Withdraw it along with the seam, and tear it off.

IMG_7404

 

There’ll be a lot of trash.

IMG_7408

 

After pealing off the paper.

11

Paper pattern for kimono – N12 to N15

Detailed description about another page “Kimono’s paper pattern“.

Here is the previous step.

 

N12: Sew together under sleeves

Fold the sleeve on the shoulder line into half, and sew together the bottom of the sleeve on the N12 line.

IMG_7369

N13: Seam allowance of sleeve root and under cuff

Zig-zag sew seam allowance of sleeve root one by one.

6

 

Zig-zag sew under cuff one by one.

IMG_7377

N14: Seam allowance of cuff and under sleeve root

The fabric of cuff already has a fold by iron, so sew it straight by sewing machine as it is.

IMG_7378

 

You made a fold under the sleeve root by iron earlier, so sew it straight by sewing machine.

IMG_7385

N15: Seam allowance of sleeve bottom

Zig-zag sew together two fabrics on the bottom part of the sleeve.

IMG_7391

Paper pattern for kimono – N9 to N11

Detailed description about another page “Kimono’s paper pattern“.

Here is the previous step.

N9: Sew together left and right sides of body

Sew straight along with N9 line. By that, sew together Front Migoro (Body) and Back Migoro on the left and right sides.

IMG_7357

N10: Seam allowance of sleeve root to left & right sides of body

Zig-zag sew sleeve root and Miyatsuguchi.

Sleeve root (Sodetsuke 袖付) is the line between Migoro (Body) and sleeve.

Miyatsuguchi (身八つ口) is a hole under sleeve root only for women. You can put your hands thorough this to inside kimono.

IMG_7359

 

Zig-zag sew two fabrics together, as for left and right sides of Migoro (Body).

IMG_7365

N11: Miyatsuguchi

Fold Miyatsuguchi once, and there will be two layers. Sew the two together straight.

PXL_20210120_092918331

Paper pattern for kimono – N7 to N8

Detailed description about another page “Kimono’s paper pattern“.

Here is the previous step.

N7: Iron Cuff, Sleeve Bottom, Sleeve Root

About dashed lines on sleeves.

IMG_7331

 

Fold the paper over.

IMG_7332

 

Fold the paper and fabric together, and form a fold on the fabric by iron.

IMG_7333

 

There’re dashed lines on both sides of the sleeve. Do the same for both sides.

Furthermore, do the same for both of left and right sleeves.

N8: Sew together sleeves and Migoro (Body)

Migoro (Body) is sewn together on shoulders like this.

33

 

Open one side of Front Migoro.

4

 

Put a sleeve here. Match the shoulder line Katayama (line sewn between Front Migoro and Back Migoro) and the center of the sleeve.

3

Sleeve is shaped of straight but Migoro is shared of V. So be careful and put the two fabrics (sleeve and Migoro) so that N8 lines match.

 

Sew straight N8 line.

IMG_7348

 

This is what it looks like when the sleeves are opened. Little by little it looks kimono.

5

Paper pattern for kimono – N3 to N6

Detailed description about another page “Kimono’s paper pattern“.

Here is the previous step.

N3: Sew together the left shoulder

Put Left Front Migoro (Body) and Right Front Migoro (Body) on Back Migoro (Body).

N3 and N5 are written on the shoulders of Back Migoro. Put each Front Migoro so that it matches the numbers.

33

 

Sew together the shoulder as follows. Sew straight by sewing machine.

*  N5 is written in this picture but it’s wrong. I modified the actual file.

IMG_73052

N4: Seam allowance on the left shoulder

Fold N3 line after sewing there, so that only the fabric is visible.

IMG_7306

 

Zig-zag sew two fabrics together.

*  Process it by lock sewing machine if you have one.

IMG_7307

N5: Sew together on the right shoulder

Sew N5 line together, and fold only the paper like N3.

IMG_7309

N6: Seam allowance on the right shoulder

Process it by zig-zag sewing

IMG_7310

 

Back Migoro and Front Migoro are connected like this.

IMG_7311

 

You don’t use this for a while, so roll it and keep it. It’s good to keep it in a plastic bag or something so that marking pins don’t drop.

IMG_7312

 

Next is to process sleeves.

How to make kimono by pattern: “iron fabric” to “N2”

Detailed description about another page “Kimono’s paper pattern“.

Here is the previous step.

Sew following “steps_onna.pdf” for women or  “steps_otoko.pdf” for men in the zip, but I’m explaining each step with picture.

スクリーンショット 2021-01-20 104029

This page explains “Iron fabric to straighten wrinkles” and later.

Iron fabric to straighten wrinkles

There’re wrinkles on fabric after we buy it at fabric stores as it’s folded.

IMG_7191

 

Iron it lightly like this. This is for cutting it in a precise size, and you don’t have to care small wrinkles. We’ll take off small wrinles at the last phase.

IMG_7192

Fix paper patterns and fabric by marking pins

Put paper pattern on fabric.

18

 

Put marking pins at the intervals like about 1 pin by 2 pages.

19

 

This is enlarged view.

20

 

It’s better to put a marking pin in the center at the part of tucked seam.

21

 

Put marking pins at sleeves and collars in the same way.

2

IMG_7313

 

Make the same two paper patterns for sleeves.

IMG_7330

N1 Back Body: 3 parts for tucked seam

The names of parts are written on each paper pattern such as “Ushiro Migoro (Back Body)” and “Jieri (Base Collar)” with big characters.

In

  1. Ushiro Migoro (Back Body)
  2. Hidari Mae Migoro (Left Front Body)
  3. Migi Mae Migoro (Right Front Body)

of the paper patterns, there’re 3 parts for Tucked Seam.

FYI tucked seam is not to sew 2 fabrics together, but to fold the center of one fabric and sew it along with the fold. So the front side will look like a joint.

The following picture will explain rather than words.

There’re 3 lines like this, under “N1”.

IMG_7208

In the above, dashes lines

22

mean

fold to front.

Also, solid lines

23

mean

sew straight by sewing machine.

 

So, first fold the paper along with the dashed line to front.

IMG_7209

 

And then, fold both of the fabric and the paper along the dashed line.

IMG_7210

Confirm fabric is inside the paper pattern.

Sew straight along with the solid line.

23

IMG_7211

 

I recommend the stitch to be about 2.5 mm. Fine stitch is better to peal off the paper later.

29

 

It’ll look like this after sewing.

IMG_7213

 

Expanded.

24

Cut off outside dotted lines together with fabric

The outlines of the pattern is

28

dotted lines like this.

Cut off both of paper and fabric along with these lines.

FYI it’s alright if you do this right after sewing N1.

It’ll look like this after cutting it off.

25

 

Flipped to the front side.

26

 

Roll it and keep it for now.

27

 

Do the same

  • tucked seam
  • cut off both of paper and fabric

for Left Front Migoro (Body) and Right Front Migoro (Body).

30

N2 Seam allowance of Okumi

Next, it’s N2 of Left Front Migoro (Body) and Right Front Migoro (Body).

 

Fold the two dashed lines over.

22

IMG_7295

 

Fold it like this.

IMG_7296

 

And then, fold both of fabric and paper along the fold, and iron both.

IMG_7297

 

After a fold is formed on the fabric, take off the marking pins beside it.

Peal off the paper, and sew straight only the fabric. Long stitch like 5mm is better so that you can undo the seam to repair/modify later.

Similar collor yarn is better so that the seam won’t be visible.

IMG_7298

 

Completion

31

 

Enlarged

IMG_7301

 

Front side

32

 

Do the same for Left Front Migoro (Body) and Right Front Migoro (Body) both.

To be continued to N3.

How to make paper pattern by printing PDF

Detailed description about another page “Kimono’s paper pattern“.

Before printing

Download and unzip a zip file from the above page.

And then there’re 5 PDF files in the “pdf” folder

13

like this.

12

Each PDF is named as something like ushiromigoro.

The meaning is as follows.

  • eri : collar
  • maemigoro hidari: front body left
  • maemigoro migi: front body right
  • sode: sleeve
  • ushiromigoro: back body

Open the PDF file by such as Adobe Reader

16

Print it out at A4 size

14

IMG_6610

Stick them with cellophane tape.

I’m explaining how to stick below.

After printing

The following picture says “L2”. My program numbers each edge so that you look for the paired number and stick the edges.

IMG_7160

 

Cut off or fold the edge to stick the papers.

IMG_7161

 

And then stick the both sides of the edge with cellophane tape.

IMG_7162

 

Just a little cellophane tape is enough. Otherwise the tape will be a waste.

IMG_7163

 

It’ll look like this after attaching them vertically.

IMG_7164

 

Again, stick the same numbers.

IMG_7165

 

Cut off or fold the edge to stick.

IMG_7166

 

Stick corners with cellophane tape. As for the 1st end and the last end, you’ll cut them off from now, so put cellophane tape on the seam allowance.

IMG_7167

 

Stick the corner with cellophane tape like this.

IMG_7168

 

ushiromigoro.pdf (Back body) will look like this after sticking all the papers.

IMG_7170

 

You could cut of both of the paper and fabric together later, but it’s better to cut off the margin on the paper in advance so you can use fabric at the exact position without waste.

IMG_7171

Q&A #12: Is Yukata for ordinary use or for a special date?

 

Q: Aren’t you getting hot in all this clothing? (Juban, Kimono andHaori)

A: Yes, it would be hot in summer, but not in the other seasons. We have many kinds of fabrics and we choose thin/thick cloth depending on the temperature and weather. When it’s cold, we wear warm fabric. When it’s hotter, we wear thin fabric.

 

 

Q. Do you still wear a juban underneath the kimono when you wear hakama?

A. Yes, you should wear juban too, because it would be a formal situation when you need to wear hakama.

 

Q.  (In Hakama vide) Seriously, how do you go to toilet with traditional clothing?

A. In case of hakama & pee, hakama’s hem is wide enough to pull out the thing. In case of hakama & poo, untie the second knot in front, and take off the board on the back, so that your hip shows up.

 

Q. (About how to wear yukata) Is it for ordinary use or for a special date? Are they sold in Mexico? Regards!

A. Yukata originates from pajama after bath. So it’s casual. In summer (I think it’s always summer in Mexico) you can wear yukata in any casual situation like daily use.

Maybe it’s not on sale in Mexico but in the US, it’s on sale on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071J3PRG7/

My website ships overseas.

http://wkimono.tokyo/shop_category_item.php?lang=eng&type=yukataset

 

Q. Do you approve of foreigners wearing daily kimono? In America, there’s an idea of “cultural appropriation,” which means that it can be an insult for a foreigner to wear kimono. I’m going to wear a kimono for a wedding but I don’t want it to be offensive.

A. It sounds great that you’re going to wear kimono in a wedding 😀 I don’t think that’s offensive to Japanese. But maybe you could be careful of formal/casual difference of kimono. Yukata is a casual wear, and kimono cordination without socks(tabi) and jacket (haori) is casual. Wedding is a formal situation so you could wear kimono with haori, tabi and undergarment(juban) to make it formal.

Have you heard of Kimberly “Kim” Kardashian West’s “kimono” brand name issue? She tried to name her underwear-brand as kimono, and many Japanese kimono fans badly responded. That kind of things can be an insult, but it should be perfectly OK and moreover, it should make Japanese people really delighted if you just wear kimono! Enjoy attending at the wedding ceremony 😉