[New Release] Lined Kimono (Awase) Patterns are Finally Available!

Hello everyone. I’m Hiro, the owner of Wakasama Kimono.
I am excited to announce that I have developed and officially released sewing patterns for “Awase” (lined) kimonos.

Why I Wanted a Lined Kimono: Winter Warmth and Comfort

Perfect for Winter Cycling! The Power of Air Layers

First of all, the main reason I wanted this was simply because winter is cold.
After actually wearing it, I found the comfort to be exceptional; it stays very warm during the winter.

For example, the kimono I am wearing now is a “Hitoe” (unlined) kimono. While it’s reasonably warm if you wear a Nagajuban underneath, a lined kimono is much warmer because it effectively traps a layer of air that doesn’t escape.

I personally drop off and pick up my children at preschool by bicycle every morning and evening. In the middle of winter, the morning temperature is around 3 degrees Celsius (37°F), and the wind blows hard.
In such conditions, the lined kimono keeps my legs?especially my thighs?very warm by wrapping them.

I’ll explain how to ride a bicycle in kimono another time, but by using clothespins to keep the hem from flapping, the layer of air protects my legs from the cold.
While the shins and knees still feel the wind, having the core of the body warm provides a very comforting and healing sensation.

The “Silky Smooth” Stress-Free Fit of Lining

Outer fabrics for kimonos are naturally sturdy, which can sometimes feel a bit stiff or rough.
Whether wearing it directly or over a Nagajuban, the sensation when you slide your arm through the sleeve is completely different with a lining.

Because there are no exposed seam allowances inside a lined kimono, your arms slide in smoothly.
The feeling against your body is entirely different. The biggest difference lies in how the seams are handled.

Modern overlock (serger) stitching leaves fabric edges exposed, which can be felt against the skin. Even traditional unlined sewing involves folding the fabric into three layers, creating “bumps” of thick outer fabric.
Once you experience the smoothness of a lined kimono, those bumps in an unlined one become quite noticeable.

The cotton lining I used this time feels incredibly smooth?almost like silk or polyester. Since both the inner and outer layers are cotton, it provides double the warmth.
My sewing teacher says that even with silk, having two layers (lined) makes it much warmer. I’d love to try making a silk lined kimono next.

“Fuki” and “Hikae”: Meticulous Details Realized via Patterns

The Joy of a Glimpse: The “Fuki”

One interesting feature of this pattern isn’t just the warmth, but the “Fuki” (the slight protrusion of the lining at the edges).
This is where the lining peeks out slightly from the sleeve cuff. While Haori coats usually use a “Kenuki-awase” (flush) finish, lined kimonos allow about 2mm of the lining to show.

Adjusting this by the millimeter is something paper patterns usually struggle with compared to traditional hand-sewing, but I managed to achieve about a 1mm Fuki. Seeing the navy lining peek out from under the brown outer fabric is a subtle joy for the wearer.

There is also a “Fuki” at the hem, which is set to 3mm. This is more noticeable and creates a beautiful continuous line of the lining color along the bottom.

The Aesthetics of “Hikae”

Conversely, there are places where we intentionally hide the lining, called “Hikae.” This is applied to the “Erimoto” (lower collar area).
Here, the lining is recessed by about 2mm so that only the outer fabric is visible from the front.
These fine details are what make Japanese clothing so beautiful.

When walking, the hem naturally kicks out. Catching a glimpse of the inner lining yourself is a form of “self-satisfaction,” but it’s one of the true pleasures of wearing a lined kimono.

The Challenge of Creation: Redesigning for Machine Sewing

Reconstructing Tradition into a “36-Step” Process

From a creator’s perspective, this was a massive undertaking that took a lot of time.
I wrote the software to generate the pattern, printed and taped it together, and then tested the assembly. I completely overhauled the traditional construction order to make it possible to sew the entire garment by machine without any hand-stitching or “Kuke” (blind stitching).

This overhaul caused various contradictions, leading to several reshoots of the tutorial videos and rewrites of the instructions. If a bug was found in the software, I had to go back to the PC, fix it, reprint, and start filming all over again. It was also physically difficult to sew with a camera stand blocking my view!

Double the Work, But Significant Benefits

There are 36 steps in total. While this is similar to my unlined kimono patterns, you are essentially making two kimonos (inner and outer) for the first half of the process, so the workload is effectively doubled.
However, the benefit is that you don’t have to do the time-consuming “triple-fold blind stitching” (Mitsuyori-kuke) required for unlined garments.

You essentially join the outer and inner layers and sew straight lines with a machine. While aligning the heights and left/right sides requires precision, it feels just as fast as the traditional unlined finishing methods.

I’ve also incorporated “Nakatoji” (internal tacking). The back center, sides, and “Okumi” seams are tacked together on the inside. Without this, the inner and outer layers would shift separately, but this internal connection keeps everything solid. I purposely left the shoulder seams loose to ensure the shoulder line drapes beautifully.

Technical Innovation via AI and “Python”

An Industry First: Patterns Calculated to Perfection

Most kimono patterns available today are for “Yukata” or casual wear, but I am aiming for something that can be used for formal occasions.
This lined pattern might be the first of its kind in the industry.

“Fuki” and “Hikae” are difficult to calculate in a standard pattern because they involve shifting seam lines by millimeters across a curved or folded surface. I wrote software that applies this logic?shifting from a 2mm recess at the collar to zero at the hem and a 3mm protrusion at the sleeve?across all sizes from SS to LL.

Development with an AI “Staff”

This was made possible by AI. Since last summer, AI-assisted programming has allowed me to act as a “Director.” I worked with two screens, directing AI as if I had two subordinates, which allowed for incredibly rapid development.

I also switched from PHP, which I had used for 5 years, to Python. Python is excellent for image output and complex calculations, which significantly improved the quality and functionality of the patterns.

“Tsugihagi” (Patching) Function for Modern Statures

Traditional “Tanmono” (kimono fabric rolls) are usually 36cm wide, which only allows for a maximum sleeve-to-shoulder length (Yuki) of 68cm.
This is simply not enough for many modern people, including myself (I am 178cm tall).

Previously, you either had to wear it with short sleeves or buy two rolls of fabric. I have now automated a feature that uses the leftover fabric from a single roll to add “patches” to the shoulders or sleeves. By placing these patches in inconspicuous positions, you can achieve the correct length affordably.

An Enhanced Product Page: Real-Time Size Calculations

I’ve also rebuilt the product page using Python. This allows for a much more variety-rich size chart.
Options like “Wide sizes,” which were previously “hidden menu” items, are now displayed in real-time.

I also frequently get asked, “How many meters do I need if I use 110cm wide Western fabric?” Now, the computer automatically calculates the shortest required length for any given size and gender by testing every possible layout combination. It even generates a diagram, which I think is quite interesting to see.

Closing Advice: Choosing Your Fabric

While it’s tempting to use cute Western apparel fabrics, after wearing many kimonos, I’ve found that traditional “Tanmono” fabric rolls provide the best experience. They have the necessary “body” and thickness.
Western fabrics can sometimes lack the proper weight, leading to poor hem movement or a wrinkled appearance.

You can find affordable Tanmono on sites like Mercari, so I encourage you to try making one with authentic kimono fabric.
Thank you for your interest in our new Lined Kimono Patterns!