You can use the same fabric (tomonuno / matching cloth) by cutting it from another hidden part of the existing kimono.
Shoulder-width patch fabric
Use the hidden “three-part collar” under the hanging collar.
On used kimono, this area may already be a separate collar piece.
Three-part collar width: sufficient
Three-part collar length: sufficient
Three-part collar length: insufficient
💡 Why can we take fabric from the three-part collar?
・Width: We check whether the three-part collar hidden under the hanging collar is wider than the two patch pieces (including seam allowance) needed to widen the shoulders.
・Length: From this kimono’s body length and erikatamawari, we estimate the hidden three-part collar length and check whether enough length is available for the patch.
Sleeve-width patch fabric
Use the hidden “right okumi” under the left body panel.
Cut off the hem side of the right okumi; leave the okumi tip side.
Okumi width: sufficient
Okumi width: insufficient
Okumi length: sufficient
Okumi length: insufficient
💡 Why can we take fabric from the right okumi?
・Width: We check whether the “right okumi” hidden under the front body panel when worn is wider than the two patch pieces (including seam allowance) needed to widen the sleeve width.
・Length: We calculate whether enough length remains in the hidden upper portion of the right okumi after cutting off the hem side for patches, so the kimono still layers neatly when worn.
Alternative patch fabric: cut size and how to sew
If you remove fabric from the existing kimono, apply replacement fabric (a separate patch) in its place.
Mitsuwari collar alternative fabric
Measure the finished length and width of the kakeeri (outer collar).
The alternative fabric size is calculated from the kakeeri measurements.
Measure the kakeeri on the existing kimono and enter the values.
Kakeeri finished widthcm, lengthcm
↓
Alternative fabric cut size width13.5cm, length91cm
Sew the alternative fabric and original fabric (tomonuno) together with a 1 cm seam allowance using a straight machine stitch.
How to sew on alternative fabric
Right okumi alternative fabric
Alternative fabric cut size widthcm, length105.5cm
How to sew on alternative fabric
Helpful sewing patterns
I provide dedicated patterns (PDF) so you can cut fabric to the calculated measurements and sew the pieces together without misalignment.
Print and place them on the fabric—no guessing at complex pattern matching or millimeter-level layout—and proceed with your alteration smoothly.
What's included
Additional-fabric patterns: Patterns for accurately cutting portions from the kimono's matching fabric (tomonuno—the same fabric).
Body attachment
Sleeve attachment
Alternative-fabric patterns: Patterns for replacement fabric (yardage) to use where the kimono fabric is not enough.
Three-cut collar
Right okumi
Used together, the additional-fabric and alternative-fabric patterns help you alter cleanly without guessing at pattern matching or dimensions.
